Lots of parameters affect how a table tennis rubber will play. One of the most important factors to get right when buying a rubber is its hardness.
If you choose a rubber that’s too soft for your level, you’ll find that you’ll lack power, whereas if you pick a rubber that’s too hard, you’ll struggle to use it correctly.
This guide will explain how a rubber’s hardness affects its performance and help you buy rubbers with the optimal hardness for your level of play.
A basic explanation of rubber hardness
Table tennis rubbers are made up of two parts, the sponge and the topsheet. When talking about rubber hardness, we are referring to the hardness of the sponge.
The sponge in the rubber is what determines the speed and dwell time of the rubber. Consider the sponge as the power reserve of the rubber.
The hardness of a rubber ultimately affects the gears, stability, speed, and spin characteristics when playing. Each of these can be thought of in simplistic terms considering what happens when a ball contacts the rubber.
Intuitively, softer rubbers are easier to compress, while hard rubbers are harder to compress. Imagine trying to compress a sponge versus compressing concrete.
If you drop the ball on a soft rubber, the rubber gets compressed in a higher proportion than if you were to drop it on a hard rubber. Hence, low acceleration shots are more effective on softer rubbers, since they compress more easily than hard rubbers.
However, soft rubbers are quite easy to bottom out, that is, get them to full compression. After soft rubbers bottom out, the rubber won’t output any more power.
Because harder rubbers are more difficult to compress, it’s hard to bottom them out, so they have a much greater power reserve. However, that power reserve is more difficult to access, since the rubber is harder to compress.
Generating speed, spin, and stability
On low acceleration shots, softer rubbers give more spin and speed than hard rubbers.
However, there comes a point where the softer rubbers “bottom out”. This means that if you hit harder and harder, you are not going to get more and more quality in the same proportion.
Also, soft rubbers tend to lose control and stability as the speed of play increases.
On the other hand, hard rubbers have higher top speed and spin, but it is more difficult to access those high gears.
Using hard rubbers, softly hit shots will have little speed, but if you hit hard, your shots will have a lot more quality than if you used softer rubbers.
Also, hard rubbers are much more stable and controllable at high speeds than soft rubbers.
Hard rubbers are great for countertopspin shots as players can use the stability and gears of their rubbers to hit however they’d like.
These are the reasons why professional players use hard rubbers.
As they hit with a lot of power, it is convenient for them to use hard rubbers that allow them to achieve a lot of quality in their shots and enough stability to play counter spin rallies.
If they used soft rubbers, they’d be limiting the quality they could get on their shots.
What are gears on a table tennis rubber?
Gears in table tennis rubbers are the possible speed values that a rubber can achieve.
For example, a rubber like the Xiom Vega Europe has far fewer gears than the Hurricane 3 NEO.
The Xiom Vega Europe is bouncier than the Hurricane 3 NEO because it’s easier to compress, but it doesn’t have as much top speed, because it bottoms out more easily.
The following graph compares the power output of a hard vs a soft rubber depending on the power input.
As we can see, with little power input we’ll have more quality with the soft rubber (the Xiom Vega Europe).
However, once we get to more powerful shots, the hard rubber keeps giving more and more power, while the soft rubber bottoms out and stops outputting speed and spin.
It is often said that soft rubbers are bouncy but not powerful. In contrast, hard rubbers are not as bouncy but have a higher top speed.
This is also why it is said that harder rubbers tend to be more linear than softer rubbers.
In terms of gears, softer rubbers lack the lower gears (because they’re bouncy and easy to compress), and they also lack the top gears (because they are easy to bottom out).
Hard rubbers, on the other hand, have a much wider spectrum of gears.
If we were to take two rubbers of equal speed but different hardness, the hard rubber would be slower on soft shots and faster on hard shots.
This gives the player a much greater ability to vary the speed of their shots.
However, soft rubbers are a lot easier to use, especially for beginners. When playing with moderate acceleration you get good spin, speed, safety, and control.
What rubber hardness should I choose?
Now that we know that soft rubbers are better for players with lower swing speeds and hard rubbers are better for players with higher swing speeds, we can understand the best ping pong rubbers for every level of play.
It is also important to note that the forehand stroke is more powerful than the backhand one due to the anatomy of both strokes, so the vast majority of players will use harder rubbers on the forehand side.
Beginner players
Beginner players should use rubbers that are not excessively hard.
However, choosing a rubber that is too soft, especially on the forehand side, would not be a very good choice, since it is easy to pick up bad habits from using very soft rubbers.
Soft rubbers are easy to use, so this can lead to players utilizing improper technique and getting away with it.
I would recommend that beginners use medium or medium-soft rubbers on the forehand side and medium-soft or soft rubbers on the backhand side.
For the forehand side, I would look for rubbers between 42 and 46 degrees on the ESN scale.
Good options include the Andro Rasanter R42 (42°), the Yasaka Rakza 7 (45-46°), and the Donic Baracuda (45°).
Note that the ESN scale is different than the Butterfly and the DHS scale. I explain these a little bit later.
I recommend rubbers between 37 and 42 degrees on the ESN scale for the backhand side.
Good options include the Andro Rasanter R42 (42°), the Andro Rasanter R37 (37°), the Xiom Vega Europe (42°), and the Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft (39°).
Intermediate players
For intermediate players, I would recommend medium or medium-hard rubbers on the forehand side and medium soft or medium rubbers on the backhand side.
For the forehand side, I would look for rubbers between 45 and 49 degrees on the ESN scale.
Good rubbers on this hardness range include the Yasaka Rakza Z (47°), the Yasaka Rakza 7 (45-46°), the Andro Rasanter R47 (47°), the Tibhar Evolution MX-P (47.5°), the Hurricane 3 NEO (38° DHS scale), and the Donic Baracuda (45°)
I would look for rubbers between 40 and 47 degrees on the ESN scale for the backhand side.
Good options include the Andro Rasanter R42 (42°), the Yasaka Rakza 7 (45-46°), and the Donic Baracuda (45°).
Advanced players
Advanced players generally use hard rubbers.
I would recommend that advanced players use rubbers between 47 and 55 degrees and 45-53 degrees on the backhand side.
Good alternatives for the forehand side include the Tibhar Evolution MX-P (47.5°), the Tibhar Evolution MX-P 50 (50°), the Butterfly Tenergy line (36° Butterfly Scale), the Butterfly Dignics line (40-44° Butterfly Scale), and most hard European tensor rubbers.
Good alternatives for the backhand include the Tibhar Evolution MX-P (47.5°), the Andro Rasanter R47 (47°), the Butterfly Tenergy line (36° Butterfly Scale), and most medium-hard or hard European tensor rubbers.
Rubber hardness scales
In table tennis, there are 3 different hardness scales, which makes comparing rubbers from different manufacturers quite confusing.
For example, a 40° DHS Hurricane 3 NEO is an extremely hard rubber, while a 40° ESN rubber is a very soft rubber. This is because DHS and ESN use different scales to measure hardness values.
All the rubbers manufactured in Europe are called ESN rubbers because they are manufactured in the ESN factory. The offerings from Donic, Yasaka, Xiom, Stiga, Andro, Joola, and Tibhar are all manufactured by ESN.
The following chart will help you better understand how hard or soft rubbers from different manufacturers are.
Rubber Hardness Chart
With this chart, you will be able to convert hardnesses between manufacturers seamlessly.
Frequently asked questions
Because the subject of rubber hardness is quite complex, there are many doubts and misconceptions surrounding the topic.
We will answer 2 of the most common questions about the topic of rubber hardness.
Are hard rubbers faster than soft ones?
Speed is mostly dependent on the technology of the rubber.
However, given two rubbers with the exact same technology but different sponge hardnesses, the softer one will have more speed on soft shots and less maximum speed, while the hard rubber will be slower on soft shots but it’ll have a higher maximum speed.
Hard rubbers do have more maximum speed than their softer counterparts because they don’t bottom out as easily.
Do soft rubbers have more control than hard rubbers?
It is believed that soft rubbers have more control than hard rubbers. This is true to a certain extent.
Soft rubbers are usually slower than their harder counterparts because manufacturers design soft rubbers with beginner players as the target audience.
Advanced players generally prefer hard rubbers since they give them a lot more quality on high-impact shots, so manufacturers aim to sell soft rubbers for beginners.
Because of this, softer rubbers will usually be slower, so most soft rubbers are quite controllable.
Another thing that gives players a feeling of control when using soft rubbers is that, due to them having fewer gears, they are very easy to use on moderate-speed rallies.
These rubbers have enough catapult to clear the net and lots of dwell time to spin the ball, so they are quite controllable in that sense.
However, it must be noted that on high-impact shots, softer rubbers are more unstable than hard rubbers, so in this area of the game, softer rubbers don’t have as much control as hard rubbers.
Alvaro’s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who's been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!
Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller
What are your thoughts on Xiom Omega 7 Asia Ying hardness 60? I love this rubber I play with Donic fastest carbon blade Ocherov Carbospeed What you say about gears is exactly as I have experienced it. What I would say is that if you play a mediocre shot the very hard rubber can actually play slower than a softer rubber but if you access the higher gears the quality of the shot is almost unbelievable.
Hello Helmuth,
I hadn’t heard of that rubber, I have played with rubbers of the Omega 7 range but I didn’t know about the Asia Ying. 60 degrees is extremely, extremely high hardness for a rubber, and I think it’d probably rank it as the hardest rubber I’ve ever heard about. It probably rivals the 41 degree Hurricane in hardness.
At these hardness ranges, the effect will be even more exacerbated. These rubbers are very unforgiving to improper technique, but when you strike the ball just right and with tons of acceleration, you will be very rewarded.
It’s just a matter of preference and convenience to choose what hardness suits you best. I think everyone has to strike a balance between a rubber that gives them enough forgiveness for their level while maximizing the power of their strokes.
Cheers!
What can you recommend for Nittaku Violin? At the moment I have Rasanter R42 (FH) and Xiom Vega Europe (BH) I’m looking for faster and spinner rubbers. I chose Fastarc G-1 (FH) and Rakza 7 (BH). Or as an option: Fastarc G-1 (FH) and keep Rasanter R42 as BH.
Hello Dima,
I would personally go with the Fastarc G-1 on the forehand side and the R42 on the backhand side, but it’s just a matter of personal preference and playing style.
want to pair with the dhs hurricane 3 neo soft (commercial) on back and stiga clipper for blade. I currently play with the pro-spin racket. with a 5+2 blade. what rubber should i use for forehand. currently considering the rakza 7 47, dhs hurricane 8 medium-hard or the xiom vega pro.
All of those are very good options!
Vega Pro is the faster of the bunch, Hurricane 8 is good for Chinese style looping, and you can’t go wrong with Rakza 7.
Cheers,
Álvaro
Thanks Alvaro
Frustrated with Viscaria R53 & MXS after spending about $240 i decided to sell it so that something more controlable can be still tried out. In the process I fell victim to on line scammer as I sold it it cheater online who didnot pay. I lost lot of money.
Still I want to try something which will give me MORE feel of ball while countering.
I never new about hardness , gears and Power connection which you have explained in manner I understand. Thanks a lot. Thanks for lucid explanation
All the time I like many others think of Ma long and and play club level with Hard rubber. Its useless to even think of like having a Porsche & driving like Alto even though both serve same purpose of taking one to destination. now I got it more or less .
Its just like car …… to get more pleasure of speed & driving higher gears and for city roads where lots of steering & up downs and overall speed requirement lower upto 4 th gear may be.
Any way suddenly I landed with my Yinhe EC11 F- Sonex JP gold B- old Dignics 05 secondhand.
My game style is Basic backhand, slowish ,choppy and cut, flick type, hidden serves & hitting flat both sides Rarely or almost never top spin with forehand. Now suddenly I am finding my old racket combo suiting to my game style.
But still I feel I lack control to return fast topspins which I am searching for last 30 years (I am age 65 ) . If possible can you suggest some combination ( no anti, pimple )
Hello Aditya,
I really liked the Rasanter R42 for controlled blocking. You might find that it suits you, especially in 2.0 thickness (not max).
However, that racket you have right now should be good for blocking. Just focus on relaxing your wrist when you’re blocking, as this will make it easier to absorb the speed of the ball, and close your racket’s angle accordingly.
Cheers,
Álvaro
Hi, ÁLVARO! I like your publications and tests very much!
Can you give me advise for my future blade setup?
I want to try Xiom rubbers with Xiom Fuga blade.
As my level not to high, I considering such combination. FH: Vega Intro 2,0 mm, BH: Vega Elite 2,0 mm (or same Intro as for FH).
Is it good for your opinion or maybe I need to try slightly different setup?
Hello Vasyl!!
It’s a good setup, I’d go MAX intro on both sides. I hope you like it!!
Cheers,
Álvaro
Hi Alvaro, read with pleasure your blog about rubbers. Wanted to ask about durability. It is said that Butterfly rubbers normally last longer. Is there any truth to that? Can you recommend good medium-hard rubbers according to their durability since not always one can change rubbers every 3 to 4 months.
Also, what kind of blade do you suggest with medium hard rubbers?? Off or off+.
Thanks
Hello Baljeet,
Yes, I think that most Butterfly rubbers do last longer than most European offerings. Dignics 05 is extremely long lasting, Dignics 09c also has good durability, and so do all the Tenergies. My Rozenas also last for quite long.
As for good medium hard rubbers for durability, I highly recommend Nittaku Fastarc G-1, Fastarc P-1, the Tenergies, and the Victas Ventus Extra.
You should select the speed of your blade based on your skill level, style, and preferences, not necessarily for the rubber hardness.
Great Article! You explained it very clearly! Thank you!
hello
I enjoyed the article
I have a few questions
Can you tell me where that graph comes from?
I’m curious about the types of rubber being compared and the testing environment.
I am also curious about the meaning of power on the y-axis.
I think it would be understandable if the table is the relationship between spin and power.
But personally, I think the harder rubber will bounce more if dropped from the same height.
thank you
Hello Takguwang,
We constructed the graph based on our knowledge. We have tried dozens of rubbers in every hardness range and we were able to notice these differences, which other reviewers and players have also noticed and researched.
Y axis (power output) would be speed + spin put on the ball by the rubber, and X axis would be power input by the player, that is, how hard the player hits the ball.
In general, softer rubbers are bouncier, while harder rubbers have more top speed.
Cheers,
Álvaro
Excellent article, Alvaro. Thoroughly enjoy reading it.
I wonder if you could assist me with this query? After 37+years of absence, I just returned to playing table tennis again. Wah, what a change in the landscape, except maybe the table and the net!!
My old setup was TSP Japanese penhold 5-Ply Wood 6mm Thickness racket with Butterfly Super Sriver 2.1mm sponge as forehand and black paint as backhand. My style of play was 3rd ball attack with either loop or flat-smash, was pretty good at blocking/defence and placement. Receiving serve average. I was an Intermediate-Advance player back 35yrs ago!
I dont know what you mean by Chinese loop; when looping, my blade has very slight tilt/angle with upward movement, the ball was slow and very spinny according to my opponents. I did well with side-spin loop as well. I dont believe this style of looping is a drive-loop.
I will like to continue to use a japanese style 6mm thickness racket. I am ooking for a newer racket as mine is 75+years old hand-me down, too slow for 40+ ball, perhaps a new 5-Ply Wood or 5-Ply Wood 2-Ply Carbon. 1-Ply is usually too thick.
I tried one or two penholds rackets from strangers at the club, however most had chinese rubbers… I was having difficulties in handling the racket+ball i.e. rubber felt dead, balls got on the net mostly, flat-smash almost never quite gotten over the net, blocking unless push hard felt dead, looping cause ball to move slow and short but spinny(surprised the opponents, haha), balls flown pass the table on harder serve, and I kept missing hitting the returning ball by 2-5cm!!
If you could assist me, what kind(brand/thickness/hardness) of japanese style racket and forehand rubber should I be using, especially the rubber? I dont mind either chinese or european or japanese rubber as long as reasonable price.
Thank much in advance! KG
Hello KG,
Thanks for the nice words! It’s nice to have you back in the table tennis world 🙂
Taking into consideration that you were quite an advanced offensive player who based his game on spinny shots, we’d recommend:
As for the blade, Japanese penhold is a grip that’s suffering quite a bit in terms of popularity nowadays, and it’s extremely sad to see as it’s one of the coolest styles.
Most J-Pen players prefer single ply hinoki blades, which tend to be very thick. I recommend the Butterfly Cypress V-Max if you’re confident in your abilities, and the Butterfly Cypress T-Max if you want to play it a bit safer. If price is an issue, you could look for other options such as the Neottec AL-S, but I strongly recommend you choose Butterfly as they are very reputable when it comes to their J-pen blades.
As for the rubber, I recommend Donic Bluestorm Pro AM.
Cheers,
Álvaro
Many Thanks Alvaro.
Going to do some research on those recommendations, and hopefully can find them for testing. The thickness indeed is a concern, may have to learn to adapt!
Cheers. KG